Prague I

Saturday, May 9, 2015

South of Prague, 23 km, we stayed at this charming campground on the Vitava River.
We are parked by a little hut designed for washing dishes, doing laundry or dining.

I find excuses to go in there; it seems to make housework more fun.

Waiting at the train station for the 9:32 a.m. train.

Prague Castle, called hrad by the Czechs, is the most popular sight in Prague. Begun in the 9th century, some say it is the largest ancient castle in the world. Inside is St. Virus Cathedral, pictured here.
This was the view from our lunch spot on a bench across the square.

The musicians who play brass instruments during the changing of the guard at high noon, marched across the plaza.

Changing of the guard ceremony.

This beautiful, heavily decorated church, St. Nicholas (Kostel Sv Mikulase), is considered to be one of central Europe's finest Baroque buildings. The dramatic Bernini-like art and sculpture create a united whole that suggests energy & vitality. It felt thrilling to be inside this place.

The Old Town Square has been the scene of some momentous events in Czech history; here are just two.

8 May 1945: Nazi SS units try to demolish the Old Town Hall as German troops begin pulling out after three days of fighting against Prague residents. The following day the Red Army marches in.
21 August 1968: Warsaw Pact tanks roll across the square as the 'Prague Spring' comes to an end.

Looks pretty peaceful now.

Despite over-the-top commercialism and swarming tourists, it's impossible not to enjoy this place.
The pastel gingerbread Baroque and neo-Renaissance buildings have been restored, their facades revealing barely a hint of the square's harrowing history.

The Old Town Hall tower was given a clock in 1410. Four figures beside the clock represent 15th century deep civic anxieties: Vanity, Greed, Death, and Pagan invasion.
On the hour, Death rings a bell and inverts his hourglass, and a parade of Apostles passes two windows, nodding to the crowd. At the end a cock crows and the hour is rung. We were there at 1 pm, so the clock rang 13 times.

A large crowd awaits, fascinated.

This group of musicians was very accomplished and put heart & soul into their music. They played a clever arrangement of "Hark how the bells, sweet silver bells, all seem to say, throw cares away". Plenty of coins were plunked into their violin case.

Back at the train station checking out the boards.