Hildesheim

A millennium ago, Hildesheim, in northern Germany, was one of the ecclesiastical centers of Western Europe. Under the patronage of Ottonian emperors, who ruled from A.D. 919 to 1014, it was a city of churches, the outstanding one being its grand cathedral, packed with art advertising the glory of God and kings. And because, for both, only the best would do, Hildesheim developed a top-class art industry. Its metal-casting workshops were superbly innovative; illuminated books poured from its scriptoria.

Although almost none of the work can be attributed to individual artists, the name of one man hovers in the air, that of Bernward, bishop of Hildesheim from A.D. 993 to 1022. Of noble Saxon lineage, he was more than a high-ranking cleric. He was a cosmopolitan traveler, a court fixture, a cultural impresario, a serial self-promoter and, eventually, a canonized saint. He was also one of the great shaping art patrons of his day, and possibly an artist himself.

His major architectural project in Hildesheim was the Benedictine church of St. Michael, for which he famously commissioned a set of immense bronze doors, each covered with narrative reliefs.

(Thanks to NY Times writer Holland Cotter)

Celle & Lüneburg

With 400 half-timbered houses and its Ducal Palace dating to the 13C, Celle is graced with an attractive picture-book town centre which appears to be a big draw especially for German tourists.

Celle's "wedding cake" Schloss was built in 1292 by Otto the Strict as a town fortification and in 1378 was expanded and turned into a residence.
The last duke to live here was Georg Wilhelmina (1624-1705) and the last royal was Queen Caroline-Mathilde of Denmark, who died here in 1775.

The one-hour guided tour (in German) took us into sections of the palace you can't otherwise visit including the extraordinary Palace Chapel, Palace Kitchen and baroque Schlosstheater.

No one seemed to notice my coronation so I took a selfie to note the occasion.

There was a very entertaining "homemade" DVD of dancing in the 18C probably made by the players of the baroque Schlosstheater.

Acrross The Road from Celle's Schloss, the Kunstmuseum is dedicated to contemporary German artists.

Inside was 'light room' the work of Otto Piene, 2001.

The connecting Bomann Museum had an entire floor dedicated to the Battle of Waterloo.

Whizzing up the road, moving the grains to Luneberg there was more lovely German cultivated countryside to enjoy.

In Luneberg as in most German towns I've seen there are extensive dedicated bike paths along the pedestrian path.

On a rainy day, retty historical buildings are in downtown Luneberg.

Locks of love are on the bridge, Paris-style, at the old harbor.

Those open-style bakeries are so inviting.

The map of Luneberg shows the wohnmobil parking lot where we stayed.

Hanover